Sunday, 8 January 2012

Tutorial 1: Pencil skirt Pattern Drafting

Hi guys,
As promised, I'm posting my first do it yourself tutorial today. Pattern drafting, crafting and sewing are quite similar to engineering because it involves a lot of calculations, dexterity and an undivided thought process. We are going to pattern a pencil skirt today; so lets get started.......
Measurements needed: band / waist , hip-line , hips , skirt length. for those who don't know, the hip-line measurement is a vertical measurement from your band/waist to the fullest part of your hips.
Tools needed: tape rule , french curve , marker, scissors and ruler.
Calculations needed: these derived measurements are the ones used through out the drafting.
1. waist/2 + 1" ( the 1" for sewing allowance)
2. hip-line + 0.5"
3. hips/4 +1+1 (1" sewing allowance)
4. skirt length + 0.5" + 1 " (1" sewing allowance)
PATTERN DRAFTING PROCESS

• get your drafting paper and fold into 2 making sure there is enough space to accommodate your measurements.
• Mark O at the folded tip of the paper and measure horizontally  the derived waist measurement which terminates at D.
•   Measure the derived hip-line vertically along the folded tip from O and mark A. From A measure horizontally  the derived hip measurement which terminates at C.
• from O, measure vertically the derived skirt length and mark B. From B measure horizontally the derived hip measurement but this time subtracting  1" or 1.5" as desired. This terminates at E.
• Join D to C with a french curve or your free hand to give a slight curve.

• Join C to E in a straight line and cut out along  B,E,C and D.

• Open up the paper to give the front half of your skirt.
•  To cut the back half, place the front half pattern on another folded drafting paper leaving at least 1.5" room for zip, other wise known as the zip allowance.

•  To attach the zip, the back half is slit through the middle and the taken in at both sides by 1.5". the zip is sewn along this allowance