Thursday, 23 August 2012

Tutorial 4: Basic Blouse with Diamond dart

Measurements needed: shoulder, bust, bust point, waist, back half length, hips, round neck, arm hole, blouse length, neck depth and bust span.

Calculations Needed:

  1. shoulder/2 + 0.5
  2. bust point + 0.5
  3. bust/4 + 1"
  4. back half length + 0.5
  5. waist/4 + dart allowance + 1"
  6. blouse length + 1.5"
  7. hips/4 + 1"
  8. Bust apart/2 + 0.5
  9. round neck/6 + 2 or 3" (for neck width, depending on how wide you want it)
  • Fold your pattern paper into 2 and Measure the neck width X and depth J ( i usually use 3" for both because i like high necks) from the folded tip marked O.

  • Join X and J using a french curve for a round neck ( you can use any other neck block you want)

  • Measure the shoulder from O and this is labelled point D, take 1" below point D (D1) and join to X. This gives the slope of the shoulder.

  • From point O, measure the bust point A, back half length B and blouse length C vertically along the folded side of the paper.

  • Draw  horizontal straight lines from these points

  • Measure bust along line A line (A1), waist along line B line (B1) and hips along line C line (C1) and join the points to give the outline of the top.

  • Measure 1.5" above the bust line and join point D1 ( tip of shoulder line) to the point using a french curve, this will give you the armhole

  • Measure 1" upward from C1 and curve into length of the top. This is to give the edge a bit of shape.

  • Measure bust  apart on the bust line(A11), waist line (B11) and hip line (C11)

  • Measure 1.5' below A11 and mark this point

  • Measure 0.5" on either sides of B11 and mark

  • Join the point below A11 to the 0.5" on either sides of B11 and to C11. This should give you a diamond shaped dart.

  • Cut out along the outline of the top.

See how easy it is; you can also include your under and upper bust measurement for more fitting.
Enjoy and keep visiting.......

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