Saturday, 26 May 2012

Tutorial 3: Bustier top Pattern

Measurements needed: shoulder, upper bust ( for boob tubes/ corset tops), bust point ( from the highest point of the shoulder to the nipple), bust, bust apart ( distance between the nipples), under bust, back half length ( the highest point of the back to the deepest point of the back), waist, blouse length and hips.

Calculations Needed:
  1. shoulder/2+0.5
  2. upper bust length+0.5
  3. round upper bust/4+dart allowance+1" (sewing allowance)
  4. bust point+0.5
  5. bust/4+dart allowance+1"
  6. under bust length+0.5
  7. Round under bust/4+dart allowance+1"
  8. back half length+0.5
  9. waist/4+dart allowance+1"
  10. blouse length+1.5"
  11. hips/4+dart allowance+1"
  12. Bust apart/2+0.5
Dart allowance should be 2.5"

  •  Measure the neck width A and depth B ( i usually use 3" for both because i like high necks) from the folded tip marked O.
  • Join A and B using a french curve for a round neck ( you can use any other neck block you want)
  • Measure the shoulder from O and this is labelled point C, take 1" below point C and join to A. This gives the slope of the shoulder.
  • From point O, measure the bust point D, back half length E and blouse length F vertically along the folded side of the paper.
  • Draw  horizontal straight lines from these points.
  • Measure bust along line D, waist along line E and hips along line F and join the points to give the outline of the top.
  • Measure 1.5" above the bust line and draw a straight horizontal line  
  • Join point C1 ( tip of shoulder line) to the horizontal line using a french curve, this will give you the armhole.
  • From point O, measure under bust length vertically and draw a horizontal line from that point
  • Measure bust  apart on the bust line, under bust line, waist line and hip line.
  • Draw a vertical line through the points and measure 0.5" to the left of the line and 1.5" to its right
  • Join  armhole to point on the bust line with a curve/cup as shown above
  • Cut along the lines



damie said...

Nice and straight 4ward explanation, I luv it

DAMLO said...

I will definitely try this out. The method I use is more complicated. Thanks for this.